And finally Kigali

Thankfully monday night in Bujumbura passed wtithout incident from either gunfire or artillery and we were able to sleep till 5:30. Our plan for the final leg of our trip was to head north on the Kigali-Bujumbura road in a taxi. we spoke to our hosts about this idea because a british girl was killed doing the same trip several years ago. We were assured that there hadn't been any ambushes on that road for about year now and that it should be safe enough. however they did warn us that there had been rumours of a rebel offensive in the coming weeks and that the bus went right through the heart of the rebel stronghold.
In spite of this everyone agreed that we were unlikely to be attacked on the road, so we boarded a taxi and headed north. As we soon discovered, a rebel attack would have been the least of our problems, since our taxi driver seemed to have a death wish. it was the most scary drive of my life. He drove so fast that our tires screeched, he overtook on blind corners and at one point he was so busy texting that he drove right through a police check point. Something that could end in the police opening fire on us. Purely by the grace of God we reached the border with Rwanda at about 11. We then had to queue for an hour to get our passports stamped, during which time I was taken out of the line and taken to the back by a Burundi police officer for no reason!!!
Once our passports were stamped, we then sat down beneath some trees and listened to the people around talk about us (since there are so few westerners who speak Kirundi/Ikinyarwanda, most people assume that you do not understand them). Eventually dad turned around and we chatted to them for about half an hour, suring which time I had a number of marriage proposals. None of which I accepted.
We then crossed the border to the rwanda side, got through customs and once everything was sorted jumped back onto the taxi for part 2 of our drive in the taxi from hell. Luckily it seems that our driver had heard that rwandan police do crack down on speeding, so the drive up to Kigali was far less eventful.
We finally arrived in Kigali at around 2, to be met by a number of close friends.
Well, the actual trip has finally come to a exhauting end. However I will try to post some more news whenever anything eventful happens. Thanks to all who have taken the time to rad it.
Take care
Chris

Bujumbura

Following a number of days rest in Kigoma dad and I then change course from heading due west, to heading north. Our next trip would take us out of tanzania for the first time and into Burundi. Our last stop before reaching Kigali. This was always going to be the most dangerous and nerve wracking part of the trip as we did not know how we would get to burundi nor what the security was like there. However we borded a taxi at 7:30, having woken up at 5:30 (3:30 UK time), and heading off towards the border. Unfortunately, almost immedeatly after leaving the taxi started to judder and after travelling about 10 km we turned back and jumped in a new taxi. This one, an 18 seater managed to hold 26 people (not very comfortably) including 2 outside on the bumper. And to be honest it was a death trap. Metal bars had been put over the windows to give people a handhold, but also meant that in case of an accident there was only one way out of the taxi and that was through the door, through all the other passengers.
The road was more of a track which snaked its way across northern tanzania up into the mountains and away from the lake. Our driver drove too fast and we almost toppled onto our side several times. we could also feel the back fishtaling with every turn. However the nearest miss was when we were heading down a hill and skidded to avoid a bike. The driver managed to keep control and we skidded to a halt. At which point two men on the back jumped off and started to hit the man on the bike. they then jumped back on and off we went.
The trip to the border was all on a dirt track and took about 3 hours to get there. We arrived at the border town and had to put all our stuff on bikes so that we could be taken the last two kilometers.
There were no problems at the border and we jumped back onto the bikes for another ride dow to a taxi stop. There we borded a taxi to a town 20 km into Burundi, where our passports were stamped. We then got into another taxi which took us to Bujumbura. We stayed there for 1 night with some friends. When asking about security we were told that that district had been shelled 3 weeks before and that if we heard gunfire it was most likely thieves shooting and being shot at.

Since I have so much to write I will post my trip from Bujumbura to Kigali tomorrow night.

Ujiji at last

Following my last post at Dodoma, dad and I spent the rest of the day with the German missionaries until about six o clock. We then got our bags and headed down to the station wo catch the all night train from Dodoma to Kigoma. We got to the station only to find that the train was delayed until 10. This wasn't the greatest news because train stations aren't the safest places anyway. So instead of hanging around there we went across the road to a hotel and had a drink until 8. We then decided that it was probably best to try and get to our carriage as soon as possible. So we loaded all our stuff up and headed as fast as possible through the crowds of people. (Dad had been told earlier by the station manager that it was best that we got into our carriage as soon as possible and then lock the doors to stop anyone breaking in and sealing our stuff). We kept moving until we got to our carriage, where we managed to find out room. we locked ourselves in and waited in the dark (the lights don't start working until the train is moving). I stood at the door and dad stood at the window.
After about an hour the train started to move and we were able to relaxe a little. However we were reminded of the risk of theft when one of the train conductors came in and jammed the windows shut to stop people from getting in while we were asleep.
We both finally got to bed (two bunks) without insident about an hour later.
I was woken at two in the morning by the sound of a woman screaming and crying hysterically. This was then joined by shouting. A little disconcerted and still half asleep I got out of bed and into the corridor and pocked my head out of the window. We had stopped at a station and a group of men had gathered at the door of the next carriage along. Some police soon arrived and also the station night guards and started to threaten a man. Gradually the lady stopped crying and everyone got back onto the train and off we went again. I never worked out what the problem was.
Dad and I woke up at 5 the next morning in order to film the sunrise, before going back to bed. The train took the best part of the next 17 hours to get to the shores of lake tanganyika. it was a nice trip, although the toilets were a hole in the ground through which you could see the tracks and there were no facilities for washing. During the whole 24 hours that I was on the train I only ate a little bit of rice. Partly because I saw at least 5 cockroaches leaving the kitchen of the train and partly so as to avoid needing to use the toilet.
The view from the train was of savannah grass land and small forests, intersperced with villages and the occasional hill. The part of tanzania that we went through was very flat and we saw no animals. We got to Kigoma at about 10 on friday night (8 british time) and have been spending the last couple of days staying on the house of some friends who are away at the moment.
Yesterday we went down to the beach with some missionaries and were assured that despite there being snakes, crocodiles and hippos in the lake, none had been seen there for a while. In the evening we were then invited back to house of some missionaries for a barbeque of Kudu meat. While we looked at some hunting rifles and had a good time just relaxing and chating.
Today we have been to see the Livingstone memorial in Ujiji just down the coast from where we are now. We went to the spot where Livingstone and Stanley met and had a guided tour of some of the buildings.
Our plans at the moment are still not fully formed. We are hoping to up to Bujumbura tomorrow, but we are not sure how to get there. We will either go by boat or by taxi, although I'm not too sure that either are particularly safe. Other than that we are trying to find out if anyone isstravelling up to Burundi in the next couple of days.
Well, unfortunately I must go as the counter is running down and I will have to go in a minute. My next post should be from Bujumbura if all goes well. We have taken plenty of pictures and video so when I get back to Britain I can put some images to these words for you all.
Until next time...!

Distance travelled: 1500 km
Mosquitos killed: 10
Days in Africa: 8

Livingstone and Stanley

Well, our trip to Africa got off to a slightly slow start when our plane was cancelled. Instead of leaving at 5:00 in the morning we ended up going at 5 in the evening, spending a night in Amsterdam and then flying to Dar es Salaam in money morning. However there was one upside, in that we were ugraded to first class and so had steak for lunch.
We arrived in Tanzania at 10:30 and had to batter a taxi ride from the airport to where we were staying. A place called the Luther Guest house. Unfortunately on getting onto the taxi, the driver was unable to start it and we had to have a push so that he could jump start the car. Welcome back to Africa.
Our room was small with two beds, a desk and a wardrobe. We also had an onswuit toilet and shower, although the only thing separating them from the room was frosted glass. So you could see everything in outline.
On wednesday we boarded the Scandinavia bus which took us on an eight hour ride from Dar es Salaam to Dodoma, where we are staying with some German missionaries. Yesterday we went for a walk through the bush on the outskirts of town and were told that a hyena had been seen there recently. needless to say, dad and I decided that, since it was getting dark, it was probably best to head back to the house.
Today we are resting in Dodoma before boarding the train tonight across Tanzania to Kigoma on lake Tanganyika.
Unfotunately my timer in the internet cafe is running out so I'll have to go. I'll come back and tidy up this post in a couple of days, and hopefully give more info then.

Facts so far:
Distance travelled - 600 km
Mosquitos killed - 2 (+1 bedbug)
Hot showers had - 0

Ready for lift off!!!

The time is now 10:20 and in four hours time I will be waking up and getting ready to go to Cardiff Airport. I've packed everything from my diary to my clothes, music and my guitar. Everything has gone smoothly so far, although we have just found out that we only have enough Malaria tablets to last us about 4 days!!!!! Ooops!
We are flying to Amsterdam and are then getting a KLM flight to Dar es Salaam, and should arrive at about 22:00 local time. For the first two night we will be staying in Dar at the Lutheren guest house (?), which dad has organised for us.
I can't wait to get back to Africa. There is always something magical about getting off the plane in Africa and being hit by the warm air, blowing across the airport. Last time I visited was in 2002 with the family for a couple of weeks.
On a slightly more worrying point, my gilfriend Ange typed "travel safety" into google and 2 of the three countries that we are visiting are listed as no-go areas. Even worse is that two of the roads that we are hoping to travel on are known to have occasional ambushes. Add to that the fact that we have been told not to travel around Burundi without a United Nations escort, and we may have to alter our travel plans stilghtly over the next week.
Well, I'd better go to bed and enjoy four hours of sleep before getting up to catch the plane at 5.

On a slightly different note, one of my favourite musicians, a guy called John Mayer has just released a new single on his website which I thought was quite nice. You can check it out at:

http://www.johnmayer.com/